There are no set rules for when you should start using a night cream, but there always comes a time when we gaze in the mirror and realise our skin needs a little bit of extra help!
You could be in your thirties, but if you have dry skin it could happen earlier. Some people think night creams are just the beauty industry's way of separating you from more of your hard-earned money, but the truth is that day and night creams provide different skin benefits.
A night cream's purpose is to replenish lost moisture and to treat the skin with enriching ingredients while it is clean of grime and pollutants.
But what’s the benefit of doing this at night? Well, it’s all down to your body’s circadian rhythm – a 24-hour biological cycle making physiologic, metabolic and behavioural changes throughout the day. The effect of these clock genes is that your skin follows a daily rhythm – changing its functionality depending on the time of day.
During the day, the skin’s primary objective is to protect itself, with thickness being at a maximum and cell proliferation at its lowest. At night, while the skin is rested and warm, the pores start to relax, allowing for vital ingredients to be absorbed more efficiently. Here, the skin is focused on repair, with cell proliferation, barrier permeability, blood flow and penetration at their highest levels.
Therefore, at night the skin is most receptive to a formulation which carries high levels of active ingredients.
Clinical studies suggest that the combination of antioxidants, retinoids, and hyaluronic acid best work together in synergy to reverse the signs of ageing and boost the skin with moisture and elasticity.
Antioxidants protect your cells against free radicals (unstable molecules that can harm your cells causing ageing and illnesses). Vitamins E and C are the best-known antioxidants and are widely used in skincare products.
Despite the fact that synthetic antioxidants dominate the cosmetic market, demand for natural antioxidants has increased in recent years and is expected to continue. Plants are well known for producing natural antioxidant compounds that reduce the amount of oxidative stress caused by sunlight and oxygen. Green tea, pomegranate, rosemary, sea buckthorn, curcuma, sage, grape seed, basil, blueberry, acerola seed and milk thistle are some of the plant extracts commonly found in cosmetic formulations.
Vitamin A, which belongs to the retinoid family, is the first vitamin to be approved as an anti-wrinkle agent to improve the appearance of the skin’s surface and provide anti-ageing benefits. While it is a really effective anti-ageing agent, it is also too harsh for those with sensitive skin. This downside is what led to the popularity of Bakuchiol.
Bakuchiol is a plant extract that is a natural, less-irritating, and vegan alternative of retinoids. It works through the same receptors that retinol uses, but it is more sensitive. It’s a great option for those who have skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, or dermatitis.
Hyaluronic acid is a substance that is naturally produced by your body. It helps increase skin moisture and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It can bind up to 1000 times its weight in water - in other words, it binds water molecules onto the surface of your skin to keep it nice and hydrated.
The benefits of hyaluronic acid on the skin has to do with its molecular weight and concentration. Low molecular hyaluronic acid can more easily penetrate the skin and have been shown to be more effective at fighting wrinkles. Whereas higher-weight hyaluronic molecules deliver immediate intensive hydration for an instant smoothing and firming effect. Using a combination of molecular weights will lead to the best possible results than using a single molecular weight alone.
Eczema is a group of conditions that make your skin inflamed or irritated. No matter which part of your skin is affected, eczema is almost always itchy. Your skin usually is red, dry, cracked and sore.
When people refer to eczema, they usually mean atopic dermatitis (AD), which is characterized as dry, itchy skin that often appears with a red rash. This is the most common and chronic type of eczema, it is caused by genetics and sometimes has allergic features (atopic means sensitivity to allergens). Studies show that eczema is inherited from a maternal gene located on chromosome 11. Eczema affects 8–25% of the population worldwide. While most children outgrow it by their 10th birthday, some people continue to have symptoms on and off for life (like me).
Contact dermatitis is caused by contact with irritants. Burning, itching, and redness can occur. The inflammation goes away when the irritant is removed.
Dyshidrotic dermatitis affects fingers, palms of the hands, and soles of the feet. It causes itchy, scaly patches of skin that flake or become red, cracked, and painful. The condition is more common in women.
Seborrheic dermatitis appears on the body where there are a lot of oil-producing glands like the upper back, nose and scalp. It often causes scaly patches, skin discoloration, and dandruff. Stress or lack of sleep can worsen these symptoms. Since the root cause for Seborrheic dermatitis is very different to other types of eczema (it is an inflammatory reaction to excess yeast), we will cover it in more detail at a future date.
People with facial eczema (usually atopic or contact dermatitis) are more likely to have problems with their skin being able to repair itself. The barrier function of the skin is often compromised, allowing greater opportunity for the development of irritation and allergy and get bacterial or viral infections.
There is no known cause. Contrary to popular beliefs, eczema has not been proven to be associated with food allergies. It cannot be cured, but symptoms can be controlled with moisturisers, topical and oral medicines, and avoiding triggers.
Triggers of atopic dermatitis vary between people, but stress, irritants, and hormonal changes are common factors. A family history of atopic dermatitis can also increase your chance of developing the condition.
To understand all the possible eczema triggers, look at the picture below.
As you can see in the picture above, eczema can flare up in a lot of ways. Unfortunately, my skin is prone to almost all of them. I used to have a serious flare up on a monthly basis and the only half solution prescribed to me at the time were steroids. Over the years this quickly became unsustainable, thinning my skin and making it more vulnerable in the long term. Steroids are therefore not the easy solution you may be looking for.
I have also trialled every other tip and miracle cure since, from changing my diet to doing everything I can to avoid triggers (even avoiding door handles), but unfortunately none yielded lasting results. I obviously also could not influence hormonal changes either.
My only hope was to improve and strengthen my skin, ensuring that there was no room for further imbalance in my skin barrier. And this is where through my pharma experience and academic qualification helped create the first Opala set - the Gentle Cleanser and Moisturiser.
With regular use of a simple cleanser, moisturiser (and possibly a booster), flares can be kept to a minimum. While of course continuing to avoid common triggers, such as smoking, strong UV, or woolly sweaters. To keep your skin barrier intact, you should definitely pay attention to the following things listed below. (You can also read more here about how your skin barrier works.)
Make up can irritate facial eczema, especially liquid foundation and mascara, so do not use it on affected areas. Mineral make-up is generally less irritant for people with eczema. If you suspect that your make-up may be an irritant, stop using it and introduce products one at a time, to see if any particular product is causing irritation.
Although many medical and lifestyle blogs refer to detergents, cleaners and cosmetics as being one of the main causes of eczema, it is less well-known that your eczema could be the result from direct contact with fabrics. Let's see why.
The fibers used in clothing are either natural in origin or man-made from various manufacturing processes. The source for natural fibers tends to be easier to understand, originating from plants (e.g. cotton, linen) or animals (e.g. wool, silk). But this is less obvious when it comes to man-made fibers. Some are truly synthetic (nylon, polyester, etc.) produced from the direct polymerization of chemicals, but others (e.g. viscose) are known as regenerated man-made fibers as they begin life as naturally occurring polymers (e.g. cellulose found in wood pulp).
Most importantly, just because a fabric is natural, it does not mean it is friendly to your skin. The lanolin in wool, for example, is associated with skin irritation and sensitivity. Similarly, not all manufactured fabrics are harmful (e.g. viscose).
Tip: Avoid fabrics originating directly from animals (e.g. wool, alpaca, cashmere) and those that are fully synthetic (e.g. nylon, polyester). Your most skin friendly choice is cotton, linen and silk.
Both knitted and woven structures reveal irregular surfaces that are likely to trap detergent particles, or irritate your skin directly. This depends on design, and will especially be noticeable when wearing clothes with irregular, rough edges.
Tip: Avoid letting your skin come in direct contact with clothes that are heavily knitted or woven. Ideally wear a cotton based layer underneath.
To make matters worse, these designs are often treated with various dyes or finishing touches that may make them visually attractive, but quickly become a painful woe for your skin.
Tip: Remember to always wash brand new clothing as well.
Supermarket shelves are stacked high with an incredible assortment of laundry products so it is not surprising that we often hesitate to find the perfect one. We are often fooled by the illusion of choice - a number of different brands mostly all containing the same ingredients. So next time you consult your doctor on your latest skin reaction, and they ask whether you have changed your washing powder, remember to try a new detergent that really is different. Read the label, and use a sensitive conditioner.
Tip: Question whether it really is your detergent that may be the source of the problem. Choose products (from detergents to fabric softeners) that are hypoallergenic, free of dyes and fragrances, and formulated for sensitive skin.
While the natural process of ageing starts early around the age of 25, visible signs are mostly masked inside our bodies, inside organs. Our skin on the other hand, provides the first obvious mark of the passing of time. This normally accelerates after another 25 years, particularly around menopause in women.
The process is irreversible. But not unmanageable. Through caring for your skin’s health in an informed, and regimented way, your skin can remain vibrant and alluring at any age. This guide aims to cover all you need to know about how your skin changes with age, and how you can help age with grace. Remember, it is never too late to start taking the right step.
Like a number of other organs, our skin’s process of ageing is not only a result of the body’s natural ‘wear and tear’, but also one that is influenced by external factors. The combination of factors includes our inherited genetics, overall health, lifestyle, exposure to UV, nutrition, etc.
These factors together lead to a number of structural and physiological changes in each layer of the skin, compounding to create a change in appearance.
The figure below summarises the key factors contributing towards ageing. Those marked grey cannot be influenced in most cases, and certainly not without medical intervention. But the factors marked in colour can! This is where we continue our focus.
During the ageing process, we experience changes to all three layers of our skin. The epithelium (epidermis) becomes thinner and begins to lose its water-binding capacity. The amount of collagen and elastin in the skin (dermis) decreases, accompanied by a fall in the amount of hyaluronic acid, further reducing moisture retention, and oil balance. In the subcutaneous tissue (subcutis below the dermis), the area covered by fat pads (closely packed fat cells) decreases, weakening the connective tissue in this layer.
DRYNESS - As the number of sweat and oil glands reduces, the skin becomes dryer, and begins to lose some of its elasticity and tone. This is often accompanied by peeling skin and itching.
THINNING - The basal cell layer of the epidermis slows its rate of cell production, thinning the layer. The dermis may also become thinner. Together these changes increase the likelihood of the skin to wrinkle.
SAGGING - With less elasticity and collagen, older skin is particularly vulnerable to forces it is exposed to (like gravity or other stress). This can cause the skin to sag and droop, for example creating jowls along the jaw and bags under the eyes.
WRINKLES - In addition to thinning, the process of ageing reduces elasticity and collagen, leading to lines and wrinkles. This is predominantly the case in highly active areas of the face, like around the eyes and the mouth.
AGE SPOTS - The remaining pigment cells (melanocytes) tend to increase in number and cluster in certain areas, forming what’s known as age or liver spots. Areas that have been exposed to the sun, such as the backs of the hands, are particularly prone to age spots.
BROKEN BLOOD VESSELS - Blood vessels are also more likely to break and bruise in thinner skin, and can become permanently widened.
The following steps can significantly help your skin along the process of ageing, sustaining a firmer and more vibrant complexion.
1. SUNPROTECTION AND SYSTEMIC ANTIOXIDANTS
Sun exposure (in particular UV exposure) accelerates the ageing process. If you want proof, compare the skin on your hand with that on your back (or even your buttocks). There are a number of approaches to protecting your skin from sun damage throughout your life, from sun avoidance and UV protection, to using anti-oxidants to reduce and neutralise free radicals. The former is a well known tip – avoid high UV exposure and apply sun protection (ideally a natural, or actively skin-balanced cream). The latter is often overlooked. The most important source of antioxidants should be provided by nutrition. Starting with the most efficient systemic antioxidants, such as Vitamins C & E, carotenoids, to elements such as copper and selenium.
2. SKIN BARRIER PROTECTION
A healthy and functioning skin barrier is a vial prerequisite against dehydration, the penetration of microorganisms, allergens, irritants and radiation. Applying a suitable daily skincare regime enhanced the functioning of the skin barrier, increasing skin regeneration, elasticity, and smoothness. Learn more about the skin barrier protection here.
3. ANTI-AGEING CREAMS
A more obvious one since it is in the name! But there are two main groups of agents that can be used as anti-ageing cream components: the antioxidants, and the cell regulators.
The antioxidants, as described above are vitamins, polyphenols and flavonoids. They reduce collagen degradation by lowering the concentration of free radicals in the tissues. Vitamins C, B3, and E are the most important antioxidants because of their ability to penetrate the skin through their small molecular weight.
We recommend using natural plant-derived antioxidants for an enhanced, and highly concentrated effect (e.g. a comprehensive all-round antioxidant, Opala's Anti-Oxi Moisturiser )
Cell regulators, such as vitamin A derivatives, polypeptides and botanicals (like Bakuchiol), act directly to influence collagen metabolism and stimulate the production of collagen and elastic fibres. Many antioxidants and cell regulators are best absorbed overnight when the skin works on repair, and we recommend a comprehensive, natural solution that combines both of these agents (e.g. Opala’s Restorative Night Serum.)
4. LIFE STYLE AND HABITS
Healthy lifestyle choices can help minimise the signs of both ageing. An important part of this is a healthy diet, regular nonstrenuous exercise, and above all, plenty of hydration (at least two litres of water a day).
Note that there are of course a range of medical and surgical anti-ageing treatments that are available in addition to preventative measures, like the ones listed in this blog. These medical interventions are not without risk. Ensure that you have realistic expectations of the potential benefits and limitations of both preventative and medical solutions, and understand the potential risks, and complications of the latter.
First of all, whatever you do, try not to pop it!
As satisfying as you think it might be, try to resist the temptation to pop your pimples, especially if they are cystic. As you enter your twenties, your acne goes through some major changes, which mean that your zits are no longer juicy whiteheads that explode with a satisfying pop. Instead they become deep pockets filled with white blood cells. Digging your fingers into your skin in order to pop these deep pockets will not only be in vain, but can damage your skin around the zit making things worse.
Acne occurs when the pores of your skin become clogged with oil (sebum) that glue dead skin cells together. Once this occurs, the anaerobic conditions favor the growth of bacteria such as Propionibacterium acnes. This bacterium feeds on the fatty acids of the sebum and damages the follicles cells.
These blockages produce whiteheads, blackheads, papules, pustules and nodules.
A range of factors trigger acne, but the main cause is thought to be a rise in androgen levels. Androgen is a type of hormone - the levels of which rise when adolescence begins. Rising androgen can cause the oil glands under the skin to grow causing the enlarged glands to produce more sebum.
This sebum then carries dead skin cells to the surface of the skin through the follicles, where hair begins to grow from the follicle out of the skin. When the follicles get blocked, pimples grow, causing oil to build up under the skin.
The oil building up under the skin can become infected with bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes), resulting in swelling.
GENETIC FACTORS
Acne is most often inherited, with some estimates placing the likelihood of this happening between 50-90%.
HORMONAL CHANGES
As commonly known, changes in your hormones through puberty and menstruel cycles can often contribute to increased sebum production and the formation of acne.
COSMETIC PRODUCTS
Often less obvious, but many cosmetic products, from skincare to makeup, can also cause acne even for those who would not have developed it otherwise (the irony!). When this happens you develop a type of acne called ‘acne cosmetics’. Since it can take anywhere between a few days and 6 months for blemishes to appear, it is often overlooked as a trigger. Continuing using the same cosmetic products, or trying to coverup your acne with the same culprit makeup will lead to a never-ending cycle of breakouts.
EMOTIONAL STRESS
Some scientific researchers have indicated that acne severity is correlated with an increase in stress levels and stress has been listed as a factor attributed to acne flare ups.
MEDICATIONS
that contain androgen and lithium.
POOR QUALITY DIET
High sugar and trans-fatty acid intake.
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Your skin is your largest organ and is made up of a number of layers to provide vital protection to the rest of your body. The outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum, consists of tough dead skin cells, bound together by mortar-like lipids. In effect, you can think of it as a sea of resilient skin cell residue bound together by bits of body fat, forming what is your skin's equivalent to a brick wall.
This is your skin barrier.
In its best state, the skin barrier continuously sheds off its top layer, naturally exfoliating itself. This process helps the skin's moisture stay intact, and protects allergens and pathogens from getting inside, preventing irritation or inflammation.
Let's see how this works in detail.
The skin has its own unique ecosystem consisting of millions of bacteria, fungi, and viruses that make up the skin microbiota. Keeping it in balance is essential for maintaining a hydrated and glowing complexion.
When this balance is disrupted, the microbiome’s barrier functions can fail, leading to an altered pH, infection, a decrease of antimicrobial peptides, and an increase in inflammation. Each microbiome is unique, varying with age, location on the body, and gender of the individual.
Your skin barrier is slightly acidic. You can imagine this as a thin acidic film on the surface, made of a mixture of sweat, sebum, water, dead skin cells, and different acids with an acidic pH between 4.5 to 6.2.
This acidity helps to create a kind of buffer against the growth of harmful bacteria, viruses, and fungi that could damage your skin and lead to infections and other skin problems.
The lipid matrix is crucial for the proper skin barrier function, it protects the body from transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and the entry of external substances.
The composition of the lipid matrix is dominated by three lipid classes: cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides. One very common skin disease in which the lipid composition and organization is affected is atopic dermatitis (eczema).
Some of the external and internal conditions that can affect your skin barrier include:
Your skin barrier is your body’s frontline defense against everything the world throws at you. Keeping it healthy is much more than a cosmetic concern.
If you’re performing a complicated daily skin care routine involving a basket of products, you may be inadvertently weakening your skin barrier. While 8-12-step routines are popular, they may not work any better than one or two steps, and often end up harming your skin with all the extra steps. Applying multiple products increases your risk of skin irritation, and we don't know whether the active ingredients in all the products are even compatible.
We recommend you pay close attention to the ingredients in your skincare products and use maximum 3-4 products for your skin care routine.
Be sure that your cleanser and moisturiser is pH balanced or use a toner to restore the pH. Microbiome bacteria thrive in an acidic environment of around a pH 5.
Dead cell buildup from an impaired peeling process inhibits the functioning of a healthy microbiome. Incorporate a weekly gentle exfoliation with a clay mask with mild alpha hydroxy acids.
This is part of your daily routine that is worth the effort to get right. Cleansing your face washes away dirt, dead skin cells, makeup, and anything else that might clog your pores or cause a general dullness, helping your skin remain fresh, smooth and glowing.
It’s not only how you wash your face that makes the difference, but also when, how often, and what type of face cleanser you use. Here are some easy ways to make sure you’re cleansing properly, and to make your cleansing routine even more effective.
You might think cleansing your skin before bed is all you need to wake up fresh-faced, but another wash in the morning is a good idea. While you're sleeping, bacteria from your saliva and oils from your hair are easily transferred to your face and eyes. So even if you wash your face at night and your pillowcases often, a morning cleanse is best practice. Plus, if you’re putting on products like serums or moisturizers before bed, you’ll want to wash those off in the morning before putting on your daytime products.
Make sure to use the correct face cleanser for your skin type.
Acne-prone and oily skin will need a cleanser with natural fruit acids that weaken the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. The gentle peeling effect of these natural acids allows active materials to penetrate the skin more effectively, making it a good choice in pre-conditioning facial treatments. Our Clear & Matt Cleansing Gel is a perfect choice for these skin types (but of course we may be biased!)
Dry and sensitive skin needs a product that does not strip the skin natural oils and lock in hydration like our Everyday Gentle Cleansing Milk.
When people wash their faces in the shower, sometimes the face wash doesn't have enough time to actually clean the skin.
Massage the cleanser on damp skin with gentle circular motions instead of quickly rinsing it off. Especially do allow 30 to 60 seconds before washing off to allow the product to work.
Many makeup brands are waterproof, so basic cleansers will not remove them thoroughly. For this reason, it's important to use a gentle makeup removing oil (like Gentle Moisture Retaining Booster) before you wash—especially when removing long-wear makeup.
It might seem like a pain to have to toss a washcloth in the hamper after just a use or two, but experts say that reusing the same washcloth over and over again is spreading more bacteria to your face, which can contribute to acne.
Instead, invest in a reasonable set of basic washcloths, that can last you through much more of your cleansing routine (including day and night).
A cotton washcloth, or natural clay masks are all the exfoliation you need.
The biggest mistakes is starting face cleansing from inside (where the nose meets the cheeks) out, instead of outside the cheeks and moving in. If you do it from inside out, the product will sit between the nose and cheeks and leave the area extremely dry.
]]>If you've ever wondered why there are so many different names for your everyday skin products, from creams, moisturisers to lotions and gels, you're not the only one! It's easy to think that these are basically different terms for the same type of product, but there's a lot more to it than that - and understanding the subtle differences can help you find the most suitable solution for your very unique skin.
Let's start by checking your skin type and condition!
The biology of the skin is very complex, and there are number of methods used to classify the different skin determined by genetics. These methodes include the measurements of skin microrelief, pH, oiliness, water content of the stratum corneum (outermost layer of the skin) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Dermatologists usually classify the skin for 4 basic categories.
There is an other skin classification method (Fitzpatrick) which describes a way to classify the skin by its reaction to exposure to sunlight (phototype). This can help to predict your overall risk of sun damage and skin cancer.
Unlike skin type, your skin condition can vary during the course of your life. This is determined by many factors, both internal and external, from climate and pollution to medication, stress, and menopause. The most common types of skin conditions are:
Now that we've reminded ourselves of your skin type and concern, let's get into the different skincare formula types you can find. They are not difficult to distinguish from one another, with key differences around their feel, absorption process, and typical ingredients.
We will take each in turn starting with the lightest and building up to the heaviest.
Easily recognizable because gels are transparent or semi-transparent. They are usually oil-free and water-based: thus, gels absorb fast. The texture of a gel is similar to jelly, it’s light and it isn't sticky. You may not even feel it on your skin, which makes it a popular option for those who are looking for lighter options.
Because of its light consistency, gels are especially useful in hot summer months, providing strong and effective hydration without building up an oily sweat. Many are popular for their 'matte effect'.
A gel is brilliant choice to hydrate oily skin without feeling sticky or greasy. |
Lotions and creams are emulsions - oils mixed with water in a way they are able to form a single mixture. A lotion has between 5-25% oil-soluble substances and oils. This gives it a light texture and better moisturising properties than gels, while remaining light enough to apply for both oily and normal skin.
Choose a lotion if your skin is thirsty but not extremely dry. |
Creams are similar to lotions in that they are also emulsions, but they are generally thicker. This is because they have between 15-50% oil content, and are recognisable since they maintain their shape when dispensed onto your finger. The thicker texture means it normally takes more time for the skin to absorb creams - while this may feel more sticky on your skin, it means it is able to create a longer lasting protective layer on the skin, preventing it from drying out or be exposed to pollution.
Creams can be applied fewer times a day, and are most effective when used overnight.
Creams are most effective in the winter months given their thicker, more protective texture. They are best used for dry or sensitive skin types. |
Finally, ointments - the heaviest and thickest option of them all. Like creams, ointments create a protective layer on the skin. But since they are a semisolid with thick texture, and are based entirely on oils, the film around the skin is much stronger, taking even longer to absorb than creams. It is often very greasy and almost impervious, making it less common in everyday skincare products.
Because of its long-lasting absorption, ointments are mostly used for medicinal purposes. Sensitive skin types do not normally tolerate ointments. |
You will most often come across this terms when looking for a facial product. It isn't a skincare formulation category in its own right - it can refer to any of the categories listed above. Gels, lotions, creams, ointments can all be moisturisers as long as they keep your skin more hydrated. In addition to its ability to prevent dry, flaky skin, moisturisers often provide some sun protection and anti-ageing benefits. They usually contain a number of active ingredients to treat skin concerns.
Advantages of using a good moisturiser:
Many skincare companies recommend using a cream on dry and dehydrated skin, while gels and lotions are most commonly used to treat normal to oily skin. The latter two have become more and more popular in the recent years due to the way they work - internally. Gels and lotions hydrate the skin from within, activating after they are absorbed, preventing any greasy side-effects.
But remember that just because gels and lotions are more common at the moment, they are not the perfect solution to every skin type and concern. A better option for dry and dehydrated skin are creams, since they last longer and provide long-term protection outside the skin.
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Clay particles have a negative charge but when mixed with water, the surface of this wet clay now has a positive charge due to its cation exchange capacity (CEC). The higher the CEC, the higher the negative charge of the clay and the more cations it can hold.
For example, when mixed with water the negatively charged particles on the clay's surface become bound to the positively-charged minerals in the water.
The theory is that since clay is made largely of minerals, these positively charged good minerals are then able to exchange with positively charged impurities in the surrounding area which are removed from your face as part of the clay, thus leaving good natural minerals behind on your skin.
While all cosmetic clays have the ability to draw oil and impurities from the skin, some have stronger drawing abilities than others. Thus, based on your unique skin type, one clay type may be better for your skin than another. Understanding the benefits, the differences and how they may work for your skin is the first place to begin when choosing a clay. For example:
Clay Face Masks can work wonders for your skin. The simple natural ingredients can help exfoliate and soften skin, draw out impurities, minimize pores, and remove excess surface oil.
It's simply about understanding what you are putting on your face. There is no silver bullet remember, and that means not being distracted by luxury packaging, bold claims or poorly informed trends.
Most people assume the price of skincare is the best indicator of how good it is. This simply isn't true. 1. CHECK THE LABEL 2. RECOGNISE THE RUBBISH 3. LOOK FOR LATIN 4. DO THE MATHS 5. INSPECT THE PACKAGING 6. BE WARY OF TRENDS |
Products that go on about their 'iconic scent' or 'melting texture' which are 'so important for the skincare experience'. They may well be, but they don't add anything to the effectiveness of the product (or hampers it) and are an excuse to whack up the price. And if you get a whiff of alcohol, it'll make up most of the product and that is never good for your skin.
Top 10 ingredients to avoid in skincare products, especially if you have sensitive skin:
1. FRAGRANCE LOOK FOR - Fragrance, perfume, parfum, aroma 2. PARABENS 3. PETROLATUM 4. PHENOXYETHANOL 5. PHTHALATES 6. FORMALDEHYDE 7. PEG 8. SULFATES (SLS, SLES) 9. CHEMICAL SUNSCREENS 10. DIMETHICONE +1 ALCOHOLS |
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For our skin to feel smooth and supple, the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin) has to be at least 10% water; ideally, it's 20% to 30%. Without water, the skin becomes flaky instead of peeling off nicely, and the stratum corneum gets disorganized and full of cracks instead of being tightly packed.
Because moisturisers contain oil, it's a common misconception that they are replacing lost oil. Dry skin is about lack of water, not oil.
Most moisturisers are oil-in-water emulsions, so by definition that makes them creams and lotions. Look at the ingredient list, and you'll see that water is often the first one. Some of the water evaporates when you apply the moisturiser, but some also soaks in. While the stratum corneum absorbs water nicely, it doesn't bind it very well, so some oily substance is needed to hold it in. Applying an oily substance to the skin without also resupplying it with water — either from the moisturiser or from another outside source like a bath — is ineffective: you'd just end up with greasy skin that is still dry and cracked. In fact, the optimum way to soften skin is to soak it thoroughly first in water and then cover it with oil. But that's time-consuming and messy so unless your skin is extremely dry, using a moisturiser that contains water is much easier and more practical.
Oily substances (vegetable or mineral) in moisturisers are sometimes referred to as occlusives, because they block the evaporation of water. Many fatty or waxy substances can serve as occlusives. Dimethicone and cyclomethicone are silicones that function as occlusives. When products say they are oil-free, that usually means they don't contain mineral or vegetable oil and depend on dimethicone as an occlusive instead. The effectiveness of the occlusives varies.
Theoretically, humectants pull water into the stratum corneum both from the air and from deeper layers of the skin. However, when the humidity is low, there's so little water in the air that almost all of the water comes from the inside out. Some of the commonly used humectants include glycerin, honey, panthenol (or vitamin B5), sorbitol and urea. Humectants can potentially make skin even drier by pulling water into a damaged, arid stratum corneum that doesn't hold moisturiser. So, as a practical matter, they are almost always used with occlusive ingredients that trap the moisture the humectants draw into the stratum corneum.
Emollients aren't in moisturisers to moisturise, but rather to make the skin feel smooth. Many ingredients that serve as occlusives do double duty as emollients.
When you see "vitamin E" on your skin-care or supplement packaging, it's almost always tocopherol. This is the only form of vitamin E that's recognized to meet human requirements. It can be very helpful for a range of skin disorders, as well as skin repair assisting in various kinds of cellular restoration from sun damage to healing support for scars or burns.
Topical retinoic acid or retinol — a form of vitamin A — reduces fine lines and wrinkles in the skin by stimulating the production of collagen and is the main ingredient in anti-wrinkle creams. Opala Botanicals applies a natural and safe alternative to retinol (Bakuchiol), that works in a similar manner to retinoic acid, but appears to have the added advantage of causing less irritation such as peeling, dryness or sensitivity.
Vitamin C, usually under the name ascorbic acid is also added because of its antioxidant properties. Studies of topical vitamin C have shown some effects, but in high concentrations. Doubts linger about its usefulness in day moisturisers because light and oxygen inactivate the vitamin C.
All OPALA Moisturisers are water-based, designed for special needs of particular skin types. https://opalabotanicals.com/collections/moisturisers
This is a blog feature based on the article published by Harvard Health Publishing.
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